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The Toy Poodle:
It must be 10 inches Or under at the highest point of the Shoulders

The Tiny Toy height is 8 to 9 inches

The T-Cup height is Under 8 inches


Weights are being on Average, depending on height of poodle...
6 to 10 pounds for Regular Size toy poodles

4 to 6 pounds for Tiny toys

2 to 4 pounds for T-Cups,

3 being your Average for t-cups



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We strive for Happy Puppies and Good Temperament !!
The main concern is to get the Best and Most Loving homes Possible for these Precious Puppies...
We hope you will feel the same way also !!

Puppies are home raised. That means they are held, played with and loved every day.

These dogs are bred for affection, love and companionship. They are lap dogs. They require more attention and affection then other breeds.

Puppy Guarantee

The puppy you purchase is guaranteed until one year of age against congenital disease of the kidney, heart, pancreas, spine and liver. If the dog dies within the one year time frame, the buyer will pay to have a autopsy performed to determine the cause of death. If the cause was a congenital defect you will be given a replacement puppy from the next available litter. A diagnosis of coccidiosis, giarrdia, internal or external parasites, bacterial infection, cherry eye or umbilical hernia does not render your puppy unhealthy. in order for this guarantee to be in effect, please take the puppy to your veterinarian within 72 hours and send a copy of the veterinarian's report to me. If there is a congenital health problem with the puppy, please let me know immediately and if my veterinarian is in agreement, the puppy should be returned within one week and we will discuss when a replacement puppy can be selected (you will have the pick of the same sex puppy from my next litter. No refunds of money only puppy replacements.
If Shipped, the puppy will be vet checked and have it's health certificate for shipping. Breeder will ensure the puppy has received puppy worming and received puppy vaccinations appropriate for its age up to the date that possession transfers to you. There is no guarantee as to size or color. There is no guarantee that the puppy can be shown. Although the puppy is sold with full breeding rights we prefer our puppies to go to pet homes so there is no guarantee that the puppy can be bred.
Any deposit placed on the puppy will cause me to withhold the sale of the puppy to any other buyer and is, therefore, non-refundable. The deposit will be refunded in the event your puppy becomes unfit for sale due to illness, injury or death while in my possession. A copy of this Puppy Guarantee must be read, understood and signed before your puppy is sent to home with you.


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Prices range from $500.00 and up

Puppies can be reserved with a non-refundable deposit of $200.00.

We accept credit cards through Pay Pal ONLY .

Deposits are non-refundable.

The balance on the puppy is due in full at 7 weeks of age or before shipping date.

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The puppies are usually ready to go to new homes when they are 7 weeks of age or older depending on size of pup.
If puppies are to be shipped the new owner must make arrangements with the carrier. Puppies that are to be shipped must be 12 weeks due to stressful conditions.

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We provide registration certificate AKC or APR, shot & worming record, information on caring for your new puppy.

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Below you will find Information on these subjects

House Breaking

Puppy Proofing

Vaccination

Hypoglycemia

Coccidiosis

Kennel Cough

Parvo

Dermatitis

Hookworm

Roundworm

Tapeworm





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HOUSE BREAKING YOUR NEW PUPPY

The importance of thorough house-breaking cannot be overemphasized. The younger the dog, the more difficult the job will be. Some breeds house-break more readily than others. Unless you do what has to be done, whether directly house-breaking or paper-training as an intermediate step, as discussed below, the dog will not learn. Unhouse-broken dogs are unacceptable. All the reasons that make dogs worthwhile, enjoyable companions are destroyed if the dog cannot be trusted in the house. There are two basic house-breaking techniques, one which uses paper-training as an intermediate stage. Direct house-breaking is by far preferable, but is not convenient to everyone’s lifestyle. If you have a yard of any sort, just outside your door, it is not only possible but best to house-break directly. Apartment dwellers may have to rely on the intermediate paper-training method. Direct house-breaking is simple. Basically, it involves taking the puppy outside frequently, allowing him to relieve himself, and returning him to the house. Once inside, he is confined to either a large sleeping-living box or crate, or playpen. Or, if you can keep a close eye on him, loose, but in a restricted space such as the kitchen. In either case, the puppy will be restricted to a small area in which he must play and sleep, an area that he will be extremely reluctant to soil. If he does soil the area, and accidents will happen, chastise him mildly and take him outside immediately to the area he has used before, to remind him that the only permissible place is there. Remember to be fair to him though. A young puppy needs to eliminate often, so take him out frequently in the early days before he has built up a measure of control. He must be taken out about an hour after each feeding. With age, he will be able to contain himself for longer periods and the necessary outing will be reduce to approximately four a day, but let him work up slowly. There is nothing cruel about restricting a puppy to a box or crate, contrary to what many new dog People think. It is actually a kindness to allow the puppy to get house-breaking over and done with efficiently. A majority of house-breaking problems originate with the “kind” owner who lets an untrained puppy have the run of the house. Then the puppy falls into the habit of soiling the floors and furniture, and for years afterward he may be subjected to constant corrections. The choice is between a couple of weeks of close confinement resulting in efficient house-breaking and the possibility of years of dissatisfaction accompanied be non-stop corrections. Furthermore, it’s not as if the dog is in solitary confinement. Give your puppy plenty of attention and playtime both in and out of his confinement area. Accustoming a dog to a crate may also be beneficial later, if you decide to travel with him. In addition, many experienced breeders and trainers who give their dogs free access to their crates following house-breaking will tell you that dogs appreciate having a space of their own apart from the hustle and bustle of human life. House-breaking in an apartment is a more difficult task. Your veterinarian may advise you not to take the puppy out into the city streets until his shots fully protect him from diseases he might contract there. On the other hand, it may be difficult to make frequent trips down to the street from a high-rise apartment. Such cases call for use of the paper-training method. Cover the entire floor of the paper-training room, preferably the kitchen, with several thicknesses of newspaper, and confine the puppy to that area. Wait for him to use them, then pick up the soiled papers and replace them. Continue in this fashion for a day or two. Then leave a small corner of the room bare, and hope he doesn’t use it. If he does, chastise him mildly and put him on the papers, letting him know that is the one and only place for him to go. Our puppies are started on paper-training even before they are weaned from the mother. As he seems to understand the paper idea, widen the bare area until you have a papered space equivalent to about two full newspaper sheets. Allow him to use that area until his is old enough to go to the street. Then begin street walks with him until he learns the street is the proper place for elimination, and remove the papers. At that point, watch carefully for any indication of need for relief (he may search frantically for the papers) and then take him out IMMEDIATELY. As with direct house-breaking, keep him absolutely confined (in this case to the paper area) until the lesson is fully learned. Also, you can help your puppy control his bladder by limiting water at night. Don’t give him water for at least two hours before his bedtime (this is, of course, your bedtime), and make sure he is taken out, or allowed access to the papers, just before the household retires. Be patient and GOOD LUCK!!!


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PUPPY PROOFING YOUR HOME


You’re a responsible dog owner. You feed quality food, arrange for regular veterinary care, provide lots of exercise, and schedule frequent trips to the groomer. You love your dog and have given him a “good home.” But is it a safe one? Nearly 70% of all US households have two wage earners, and their average “latchkey” canine spends from 20 to 60 hours alone weekly. Hence, pet-proofing the home environment for canine safety has become of paramount importance. Numerous household hazards lurk in almost every setting, and often where most of us least suspect. A purse, the glass patio door, or a candy dish all seem harmless enough, yet each can mete out death to your pet. Canines can become anxious or bored when left alone, and these states of mind practically guarantee a crisis. Start in the kitchen, and don’t store bleach, detergents, chemicals, etc., under the kitchen sink. Poisonous substances kept in low places are an open invitation to self-destruction, as any self-respecting canine can access the most secure latched cabinet. I’ll bet you didn’t know that all the following are poisonous to your pet: chocolate, aspirin, antifreeze, pills of any kind, cigarettes, cigars, and some paint. Electric cords present the next challenge. And close behind them, the playfully dangling tendrils of your favorite plant; some are deadlier than others:

TOXIC PLANT LIST

Aloe Vera, Anemone, Angel Trumpet Tree, Apricot Kernals, Arrowhead, Avocado Leaves, Azaleas, Betel Nut Palm, Bittersweet, Buckeye, Buttercups, Caladium, Calla Lily, Castor Beans, Cattail, Cherries (all parts), Christmas Rose, Chrysanthemum, Crocus Autumn, Daffodil, Daphne, Delphinium, Devil's Ivy, Dieffenbachia, Dutchman's Breeches, Elderberry, Elephant Ear, English Ivy, Four o'Clock, foxglove, Holly Berries, Horsetail Reeds, Hyacinth, Hydrangea, Iris, Ivy (Boston English), Jack in the Pulpit, Jequirity Bean & Pea, Jerusalem Cherry, Jessamine(Jasmine), Jonquil, Lantana Camara(Sage), Larkspur, Laurels, Lily of the Valkley, Lobelia, Marijuana, May Apple, Milkweed, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Mother-in-Law Plant, Mushrooms, Narcissus, Nightshade, Oleander, Orchid, Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle, Peyote, Philodendron, Poison Hemlock, Poison Ivy & Oak, Pokeweed, Primrose, Ranunculus, Rhubarb Leaves, Sweet Pea, Tobacco, Tomato Vines, Tulips, Wisteria

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VACCINATION SCHEDULE
2 weeks old - deworm for hook and roundworms; Repeat every 2 weeks until 4 months old.
4 weeks old - 1st parvo injection (optional if mother was boosted before breeding).

4 weeks old - start feeding puppy food.

5-6 weeks old - wean from mother.

5 and 7 weeks old - heartworm prevention.

6, 8, 10, and 16 weeks old - DA2PPv+Cv. Repeat one dose yearly after 16 weeks old.

12weeks old - Rabies Vaccination.



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HYPOGLYCEMIA IN TOY BREEDS



HYPOGLYCEMIA is a serious side effect of too much insulin, or low blood sugar. Hypoglycemia can be a life threatening, even fatal condition that often happens in very small puppies. But if you puppy is monitored carefully you can prevent this condition. When you get your puppy home PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR PUPPY IS EATING AND DRINKING WATER

WARNING SIGNS OF HYPOGLYCEMIA
The occurance of these signs depends upon how low the blood sugar level has fallen and how far into an attack the puppy is. the further down the list the more serious the case.

WEAKNESS
HEAD TILTING
UNBALANCED OR WOBBLY WALKING
EXCESSIVE HUNGER OR REFUSAL TO EAT
RESTLESSNESS
WHIMPERING
WHINING
MOANING
SHIVERING OR UNCONTROLABLE TREMBLING
DISORIENTATION
STUPOR
CONVULSIONS
SEIZURES
COMA
DEATH


WHAT TO DO DURING AN ATTACK: stay calm and focused. bring the blood sugar back to a safe level, observe your puppy, and call the vet. If your puppy is acting strangely,displaying one or several of the above signs, you should assume it is hypoglycemia and act accordingly. This is a situation where it is better to be safe than sorry. if your puppy is not hypoglycemic, then your treatment will have just raised the blood sugar causing no harm to your puppy. If your puppy WAS hypoglycemic, then you probably just saved his life!
While owning a tiny puppy always have Karo syrup, Nutri-cal, and or honey available. Karo works well because it is pure sugar in a liquid form. if Karo is not available then use Nurti-cal, honey, Pancake syrup, or table sugar dissolved in water. Wherever you and your puppy go there should always be an emergency supply of sugar.
We recommend Nutri-cal, a high sugar vitamin to supplement your puppy until it is 4 months old and then as is need during major changes or stressful situations such as; moving, vet visits, grooming, playing with the kids, etc. Nutri-cal or a product like it can be obtained in most pet stores. if you do not have Nutri-cal, half a teaspoon of honey, once or twice a day will go a long way in the prevention of hypoglycemia. Also, unflavored Pedialite to drink is a great way to prevent hypoglycemia.
TREATING MILD HYPOGLYCEMIA: If your puppy is showing only mild signs of hypoglycemia, your should treat it by immediately feed the puppy some of its regular food. The effects of the food may be enough to counter act the hypoglycemia. If you puppy refuses its regular food, try offering it something it thinks of as a treat. ANY FOOD AT THIS POINT IS OK!!!!!!!!!! Your main concern is to get the blood sugar up to eliminate the signs of hypoglycemia. Observe your puppy for several hours to make sure that the hypoglycemia does not happen again. Also give plenty of fluids to drink as hypoglycemic dogs are usually dehydrated.
TREATING MODERATE HYPOGLYCEMIA: Karo or honey should be given, either alone or with food. Karo can be mixed in with wet food or poured over dry. The Karo will bring the blood sugar up quickly and the food will help to keep it up. Small puppies should be given about 1-2 tablespoons and larger puppies about 0.25-0.5 ml per lb of body weight. The effect of the Karo will only last for a short period of time and the hypoglycemia may return so observe your pet and give Karo and food as often as needed. Don't forget the water!
SEVERE HYPOGLYCEMIA: If your puppy's case is severe, especially if it is having seizures or unconscious, you must give Karo immediately! Rub small amounts of the Karo on your puppy's gums. DO NOT put a lot of liquid in the puppy's mouth. this could cuase the unconsciou puppy to choke! DO NOT stick your fingers in the mouth of a seizing puppy. YOU COULD GET BITTEN!!!!!!!!!
Call your vet!!!!!!!!! If you can not contact your vet, call any vet- and get additional instructions right away! FOLLOW-UP: Whenever a puppy has a moderate to severe hypoglycemic reaction, you should call your vet. The possibility of a repeat episode is strong!!!!!! Repeated attacks can cause brain damage. IF IN DOUBT CALL YOUR VET!!!!!!!!!!
PREVENTION OF HYPOGLYCEMIA:PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR PUPPY IS EATING AND DRINKING. Tiny breeds have high metabolism and small stomach and need food and water available at all times. Please don't just set food out and assume your puppy is eating. Please watch your puppy and observe the amount eaten to be sure it meats the required daily amounts. reduce and monitor ruff play time with children and other pets - your puppy is still a baby!
Undisturbed sleeping time and sufficient rest is a must. Within a few weeks the attention span and waking periods of time of your puppy will get longer and longer. Feel free to call us with any questions. We have had much experience and are always there to help.
903-967-7486 or 903-638-1130


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COCCIDIOSIS WHAT IS COCCIDIOSIS?

Coccidiosis is an infection with a one-celled organism; these organisms are classified as protozoa and are called Coccidia. Coccidia are NOT worms; they are microscopic parasites, which live within the cells of the intestinal lining. Because they live in the intestinal tract and commonly cause diarrhea, they are often confused with worms.

WHAT KIND OF PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY COCCIDIAL INFECTION?

In puppies and debilitated adult dogs, they may cause severe, watery diarrhea, dehydration, abdominal distress, and vomiting. In severe cases, death may occur.

HOW IS COCCIDIAL INFECTION DIAGNOSED?

Coccidiosis is diagnosed by performing a microscopic examination of a stool sample. Since the cocysts are much smaller than the eggs of intestinal worms, a very careful study must be made.

HOW IS THE COCCIDIAL INFECTION TREATED?

The most common drug used to eliminate Coccidia is a sulfa-type antibiotic. It is given for 10-14 days. Other drugs are also used if diarrhea and Dehydration occur. If the sulfa-type drug is not Effective, others are available.
Reinfection of dogs is common so Environmental disinfection is important. The use of chlorine bleach, one cup in a gallon of water, (500 ml in 4 Liters), is effective if the surfaces and premises can be safely treated with it.


ARE THE COCCIDIAL PARASITES OF MY DOG INFECTIOUS TO HUMANS?

The most common Coccidia found in dogs do not have any affect on humans.



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KENNEL COUGH

'Kennel Cough' is the term that was commonly applied to the most prevalent upper respiratory problem in dogs in the United States. Recently, the condition has become known as tracheobronchitis, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, Bordetellosis, or Bordetella. It is highly contagious in dogs. The disease is found worldwide and will infect a very high percentage of dogs in their lifetime. Infectious agents involved
There are many different agents that contribute to the disease process of tracheobronchitis. The most common are parainfluenza, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and mycoplasma. Canine adenovirus, reovirus, and canine herpes virus are thought to possibly contribute to the disease. Although any one of these organisms can cause symptoms of the disease, the majority of cases are the result of more than one organism.
The most common viral agent is parainfluenza virus. This common virus will cause mild symptoms lasting less than 6 days unless there is involvement with other bacteria, as is usually the case. Most 5-way vaccines and 'kennel cough' vaccines offer some protection against this virus.
Bordetella bronchiseptica is the most common bacteria isolated from this disease. Clinical signs of infections occur three to four days after exposure, and if uncomplicated with other agents, will last around 10 days. However, after the infection has been resolved, the affected animal will continue to shed the bacteria for 6 to 14 weeks and can spread the disease to other susceptible animals during that time. Bordetella is one of the agents protected against through the use of intranasal 'kennel cough' vaccines. Parainfluenza and Bordetella most commonly appear together in infectious tracheobronchitis, creating a disease that normally lasts from 14-20 days.

Symptoms

The most common symptom is a dry hacking cough sometimes followed by retching. Many owners describe the cough as having a 'honking sound.' A watery nasal discharge may also be present. With mild cases, dogs continue to eat and be alert and active. Many times, there is a recent history of boarding or coming in contact with other dogs. In more severe cases, the symptoms may progress and include lethargy, fever, inappetence, pneumonia, and in very severe cases, even death. The majority of severe cases occur in immunocompromised animals, or young unvaccinated puppies.
Diagnosis

Diagnosis is usually based on the symptoms and a history of recent exposure to other dogs. Bacterial cultures, viral isolation, and blood work can be performed to verify individual agents of the disease, but due to the characteristic nature of the symptoms are not routinely performed.

Treatment

There are two treatment options depending on the severity of the disease. In the most common mild (uncomplicated) form of the disease, antibiotics are usually not used. If the dog has a good appetite and is alert but suffers only from a recurrent cough, we will often let the disease run its course just as we would with a cold in humans. Treating the mild case does not shorten the length in which the animal will be a potential spreader of the disease. Many times, prednisone is given to help reduce the severity and frequency of the cough and to make the dog more comfortable. In addition, Bronchodilators like aminophylline or cough suppressants may also be used.
In more severe (complicated) cases where the animal is not eating, running a fever, or showing signs of pneumonia, antibiotics are often used. The most common ones are tetracycline or trimethoprim-sulfa. However, many other choices are also available. Steroids or cough suppressants are not usually recommended because of the risk of immunosuppressive with steroids and the need to continue to clear extra fluid or mucous in pneumonia patients. Bronchodilators and even aerosol therapy can be used. In moderate or severe cases, veterinary care should be instituted, as the resultant pneumonia could become life threatening if not treated properly and promptly.

Vaccination and prevention

The best prevention is to not expose your dog to other dogs, especially young puppies. If this cannot be avoided, then proper vaccination is the next best option. Chances are that if your dog is regularly vaccinated with a standard 5-way or 7-way vaccine, he is already being protected against several of the agents causing tracheobronchitis, mainly parainfluenza and adenovirus. However, these vaccines alone rarely provide protection against contracting the disease, although they will help reduce the severity of the disease if the animal becomes infected.
More commonly, for best protection, an intranasal vaccine containing both parainfluenza and Bordetella is used. Intranasal vaccines create localized immunity that greatly reduces the incidence of clinical signs and illness. There are several precautions and warnings that need to be observed pertaining to this vaccine. Some dogs will develop mild signs similar to tracheobronchitis when given this vaccine. Very often, the symptoms will last for several days and the dog will recover without treatment. Dogs that are vaccinated can also shed the virus and cause other dogs to become mildly infected and show mild signs. This shedding usually lasts less than 72 hours. In addition, it takes up to 4 days after vaccination for dogs to develop protection. When you combine these facts, you will see why I strongly recommend that a dog not be given intranasal vaccine within 72 hours of coming into contact with other susceptible dogs. Do not give the vaccine the day before a dog show, boarding, etc. Try to give at least four days before contact with other dogs, and preferably 7 days. This way you will protect your dog from becoming infected by other dogs, and protect those dogs from becoming infected by yours.
This vaccine is not without its problems. It is a very effective vaccine, but it must be used carefully and is generally only recommended for dogs that are at high risk. If your dog is not shown, boarded, or comes into contact with stray dogs, your dog is considered low risk.
In kennels where tracheobronchitis is a problem, strict hygiene with thorough cleaning and disinfection of cages and food and water containers is essential. In addition, kennels that are indoors should have good ventilation with an air turnover rate of at least 12 times an hour. Agents causing tracheobronchitis can be transmitted on hands and clothing as well as through the air, so infected animals must be isolated and handlers should wear gloves and use proper handwashing to help prevent spread. Vaccination of all animals, especially puppies is indicated in problem kennels. After initial vaccination as puppies, a yearly booster is recommended. However, some dogs that are at very high risk are vaccinated every six months.

Human health risk

Until recently, infectious tracheobronchitis was considered to not be a human health risk. Recently however, research indicates that Bordetella bronchiseptica may cause disease in some humans, primarily those with compromised immune systems. In normal, healthy adults there does not appear to be a risk factor, but young children and immunocompromised individuals should take precautions against coming into contact with animals that have symptoms of tracheobronchitis.

Summary

'Kennel Cough,' now more commonly referred to as 'infectious tracheobronchitis' is a widespread disease caused by several different viruses and bacteria. It is usually a self-limiting disease and most animals do not require treatment. Intranasal vaccines are effective, but due to some possible side effects, are recommended for animals that are at higher risk. Infectious tracheobronchitis is a disease of dogs and wild canids, it does not appear to be a risk to healthy humans or cats.

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PUPPIES NEED EXTRA PROTECTION AGAINST CANINE PARVOVIRUS

Canine parvovirus is everywhere in the environment just waiting for your puppy. The wise dog owner will protect his or her pet against this debilitating, sometimes deadly, disease. Parvovirus usually hits puppies the hardest. Adult dogs can also be infected, but are usually affected less severely. Cats, mink, and wild dogs are also infected by their own species-specific parvovirus.

The virus is shed in the feces of an infected dog. If another dog has oral contact with the infected feces, they become inoculated with the virus. Some puppies have more immunity to the disease than others. If their mother was properly vaccinated, she will transfer immunity to parvovirus in the colostrum, or first milk. These maternal antibodies may be present in the puppy for up to 20-22 weeks old.

Older dogs need to be kept up on their vaccines too. As they age their immune system may become impaired and they are more susceptible to diseases. Rottweilers and Doberman Pinschers seem to be more prone to parvoviral infections than other breeds./P Besides vaccination, it is a very good idea to keep young puppies isolated from other dogs and out of parks where they may come in contact with infected feces, until they have completed their series of vaccinations. This will decrease their chances of being exposed to parvovirus.

This virus attacks rapidly dividing cells, like those in the digestive tract and cells in the bone marrow. Signs to look for are loss of appetite, lack of energy, vomiting, or diarrhea. The vomit or diarrhea may be bloody. Since these signs can indicate many diseases, it is important to see your veterinarian if your puppy shows any of these. Young pups, less than three months of age, can become dehydrated quickly. These animals can die easily if not treated promptly.

There is no drug that kills parvovirus that can be given to the dog once the animal is infected. The animal’s won immunity has to rid itself of the virus. Supportive care is very important in the treatment of parvoviral infections.

Sick animals need to be given fluids if they are dehydrated. Secondary bacterial infections may also be a problem. If an infections develops, antibiotics need to be administered to fight it. Treatment may take a couple of days up to several weeks, depending on the dog, its age, and the severity of the infection.

Parvovirus can persist in the environment for long periods. It is important to clean up after an infection. Washing the animal’s area with bleach and water in a 1:30 dilution will kill the virus. The bowls should be thrown away and the bedding either bleached or thrown away to prevent further spread of the infection. Discard all feces from the infected dog. Humans can also spread the disease on their hands if they touch feces from an infected dog and then touch a puppy without washing properly. Very small amounts of fecal material on the dog’s coat can contain large numbers of viral organisms and can easily be transmitted to a susceptible dog.

If you have any questions about parvovirus, call your veterinarian.

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Dermatitis

DERMATITIS (MITES)
General Information


The same pollens and house dust that cause allergic reactions in people often cause allergic dermatitis in dogs and cats. Allergic dermatitis is an inflammation of the skin. It can be caused by many things, but regardless of the source, the end result is licking, scratching, and hair loss. This constant trauma will often cause chronic infections.

CAUSES OF ITCHING

It can be very difficult to distinguish between true allergies and the many local irritants that can cause discomfort to your pet. Some examples of each are listed below:

ALLERGIC CAUSES/RESULT

Flea Saliva/Flea Bite Allergy

Poison Ivy, Wandering Jew/Contact Dermatitis

House Dust, Ragweed/Inhalant Dermatitis

Certain Protein Sources/Food Allergy

NON-ALLERGIC CAUSES/RESULT

Flea Infestation/Flea Bites

Tick Infestation/Tick Bites

Incomplete Shampoo Removal/Contact Dermatitis

Fungi/Ringworm

Sarcoptes, Otodectes/Mange

Bacteria/Pyoderma

Your Veterinarian Can Help

To achieve success in treating allergic dermatitis, make sure you follow the instructions of your veterinarian. Your pets allergy may need to be managed by numerous methods including injections, oral medications, topical shampoos, dips, ointments, environmental treatments.


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HOOKWORM
Hookworms are relatively common intestinal parasites of dogs, cats and other animals. Adult worms live in the small intestine, and their eggs pass out with the stool. Diagnosis is by identifying the eggs during microscopic examination of the stool.

Animals become infected with hookworms by eating infected eggs or larvae, penetration of the skin of footpads by larvae, or transmission of larvae from the mother while the fetus is still in the uterus. The time from consumption of infected larvae to the appearance of eggs in the stool in 15-26 days.

Hookworms are one of the most serious intestinal parasites, as they feed on the blood of their host animal and can cause severe anemia. In young, weak, or mal-nourished animals, hookworms can cause sudden collapse and death. Older, more resistant dogs may suffer a slow, progressive wasting disease. Weight loss, diarrhea, and tarry or bloody stools frequently occur in animals with hookworms.

Public Health Significance

Hookworm larvae can penetrate human skin and cause a skin disorder known as cutaneous larval migrans, or creeping eruption. This infection is not common, but anyone who develops a skin rash after being in contact with a pet with hookworms should consult a physician.

Important Points in Treatment

1. Treatment consists of eliminating the worms and correcting any anemia and malnutrition. Hospital treatment may be required in severe infections.

2. Medication must be given as directed. Call the doctor if you cannot give the medication as directed.

3. Good sanitation is essential. Promptly remove all stools from the area where your pet is confined.

4. Control Measures: Regular microscopic stool examinations are the best means of early detection of hookworm problems. Products are available for treating contaminated dog pens, runs, and tie-out areas. Discuss this with the doctor if your pet is kept in a confined area. In addition, heartworm preventive medications that also prevent hookworms and roundworms offer the surest method of hookworm control.

Notify the Doctor if Any of the Following Occur:

- Your pet is weak or depressed.

- Your pet is reluctant to eat, has diarrhea, or vomits.

- Your pet has dark or bloody stools.



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ASCARIASIS (round worm infection)
General Information


Round worms (ascarids) are the most common intestinal parasite of dogs and cats. Pets become infected by swallowing roundworm eggs or larvae (immature worms) found in contaminated soil of feces or by eating infected rodents, birds, and certain insects. Puppies and kittens are commonly infected by the mother while still in the uterus. Swallowed larvae travel through the body to the intestine, where they develop into mature worms. There, adult females deposit eggs, which pass with the stool and develop into infective larvae. Diagnosis is by identifying the eggs during microscopic examination of a stool sample.

Public Health Significance

Human infection with roundworm larvae (not adults) is possible but does not occur frequently if good hygiene is practiced, since eating contaminated stool or soil is necessary for infection. Children should be taught the importance of cleanliness when playing with animals, especially litters of puppies and kittens. The best insurance against human infection is keeping your pet free from roundworms by regular stool examination and treatment if necessary.

Important Points in Treatment

1. For successful treatment, medication must be give as directed. Call the doctor if you cannot give the prescribed medication. In some cases, hospital treatment is desirable.

2. A stool sample should be checked after the last treatment to ensure that all worms have been eliminated.

Control Measures

1. Stool samples should be examined microscopically at regular intervals. Your doctor will advise you regarding the correct time to do this.

2. The stool should be checked for worms before females are bred. Stool samples from puppies and kittens should be tested at or before weaning.

3. Good sanitation is essential. Remove stools promptly from the area where your pet is confined.

4. Eggs can remain infective in soil for years, so contaminated ground becomes a source of reinfection. This is especially true of dog pens, runs, or areas where your pet may be tied. Control measures for these areas include:

- Turning the soil over to a depth of 8-12 inches after your pet is free of worms.

- Replacing dirt runs with concrete, which seems to be the most effective control procedure.

- Removing stools daily.

- Moving your pet to a new, uncontaminated area.



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TAPEWORM INFECTION
General Information


The tapeworm is a parasite found in the intestines of dogs and cats. It consists of a head and a long flat body made up of segments. Segments are passed in the animal’s feces, leaving the head still attached to the animal’s intestinal lining, where it produces new segments.

Tapeworm infection may not cause noticeable illness in your pet. Or, it may produce digestive upsets, poor appetite, poor haircoat and skin, weight loss, and vague signs of abdominal discomfort.

Tapeworm infection is diagnosed by finding the segments in your pet’s feces, in its bed or clinging to the hair around the anus. The eggs may be found on microscopic examination of the feces. When first passed, segments are yellowish to white, about 1/4 inch long, and may expand an contract. When dry, the segments resemble cucumber seeds or grains of rice.

Tapeworms are not passed directly from pet to pet, but require an intermediate host in which to develop. Common intermediate hosts are fleas and small animals, such as mice, rats, squirrels and rabbits. Fish are the intermediate host for one type of tapeworm.

Important Points in Treatment

1. Treatment will destroy the tapeworms already infecting your pet. Reinfection is controlled by elimination or reducing contact with intermediate hosts.

2. CONTROL:

- For flea control we use Frontline Spray. Consult your veterinarian for continuing use.

- Treat the premises, kennels, and bedding as follows: Consult your veterinarian and follow their guidelines.

- Do not allow your pet to eat small rodents and/or raw fish.

Notify the Doctor if Any of the Following Occur:

- Your pet vomits or has diarrhea.

- Tapeworm segments are still seen after the prescribed treatment.

- Your pet continues to lose weight


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